Interest Blade Runner ID Card from Earl Hays Press

Do you know if they peeled off the amberlith? I'm very surprised by the thickness around the X. that might explain the color difference some people are surprised by as well.
There isnt a peel layer to the amberlith. Its just that thick. When we first started we were certain it was sticky backed in someway but it isnt.
 
There isnt a peel layer to the amberlith. Its just that thick. When we first started we were certain it was sticky backed in someway but it isnt.
well, mine has a peel layer and it is extremely thin once removed. that gives the very smooth feel of the badge when laminated that we can see on the original badge.
 
from the Ulano website:
1696162386997.png


and from wikipedia on the Rubilith which works the same:

From what I understand, photographers use the film with the transparent backing aplied on their work, then cut away the thin red or orange backing and peel it off.
For my badges, and I am SURE they did the same for the film, I remove the transparent backing that is very thick and keep only the thin top colored layer. this gives the same extremely flat look on the finished badges seen on the original:
BR_ID_Front_web.jpg


I have offered to help so many times, I was honestly trying to help as best I could, I don't understand why you never accepted, this was such a unique opportunity to make absolutely screen accurate badges.
 
I have to agree with eethan. I still have amberlith in my workshop in both sheets and roll and even though it’s old a tears occasionally it does peel off the clear polyester backing. I trained as a graphic designer 40+ years ago and this is the way it’s always been. I remember cutting the thin red film side with a scalpel and peeling it out to expose through on copy cameras in the early 1980’s, just at the time Blade Runner was in production.

IMG_0309.jpeg
 
from the Ulano website:
View attachment 1746665

and from wikipedia on the Rubilith which works the same:

From what I understand, photographers use the film with the transparent backing aplied on their work, then cut away the thin red or orange backing and peel it off.
For my badges, and I am SURE they did the same for the film, I remove the transparent backing that is very thick and keep only the thin top colored layer. this gives the same extremely flat look on the finished badges seen on the original:
View attachment 1746666

I have offered to help so many times, I was honestly trying to help as best I could, I don't understand why you never accepted, this was such a unique opportunity to make absolutely screen accurate badges.
Holy hell in a hand basket. Very disappointing if that is the case.
 
I have to agree with eethan. I still have amberlith in my workshop in both sheets and roll and even though it’s old a tears occasionally it does peel off the clear polyester backing. I trained as a graphic designer 40+ years ago and this is the way it’s always been. I remember cutting the thin red film side with a scalpel and peeling it out to expose through on copy cameras in the early 1980’s, just at the time Blade Runner was in production.

View attachment 1746684
I used to use it in graphic design back in the 90’s, and it always had a clear backing that we had to peel off.
 
from the Ulano website:
View attachment 1746665

and from wikipedia on the Rubilith which works the same:

From what I understand, photographers use the film with the transparent backing aplied on their work, then cut away the thin red or orange backing and peel it off.
For my badges, and I am SURE they did the same for the film, I remove the transparent backing that is very thick and keep only the thin top colored layer. this gives the same extremely flat look on the finished badges seen on the original:
View attachment 1746666

I have offered to help so many times, I was honestly trying to help as best I could, I don't understand why you never accepted, this was such a unique opportunity to make absolutely screen accurate badges.

100% guaranteed that all amberlith has a peel layer. Once peeled off the amberlith is very thin, I had to remove it when i made mine as well, and there is zero discernable ridge in the lamination due to the thickness of the amberlith. The amberlith on my badges is more or less the same color as the EH ones, not quite as light as the original James Jacobson badge.
 
Mine just came in! And arrived the same day as my Tomenosuke 2019 Blaster as well!

Earl Hays and PropsToHistory, despite the complaints, I'm ecstatic to own a piece of cinema history from probably my favorite film of all time. Thank you very much for organizing this and offering these beautiful pieces.
1000005089.jpg
 
Last edited:
Woah. I figured I had missed out on this after not logging on in so long.

If additional spots are added, I am in.
 
Woah. I figured I had missed out on this after not logging on in so long.

If additional spots are added, I am in.
I just went to their website… it’s I think $50 bucks more but we want what we want. Even bought the wallet and other cards from indy-magnoli
 
Last edited:
Arrived today. Very impressed with it, probably one of the best prop replica items I'll ever own. Thanks to everyone that made this happen!

The serial number is 82, which was a nice coincidence.

I hope to get my unicorn and Di Cambios out at some point to do a proper photoshoot.


20231006_160338 (1) (1).jpg
 
I used to use it in graphic design back in the 90’s, and it always had a clear backing that we had to peel off.
So do I take it from the radio silence that all of our badges have been made with the backing still attached and are therefore not quite as completely screen accurate as we had all hoped. Still happy to have mine but it will be a shame if this opportunity to produce a completely accurate replica has been slightly missed.
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top