My ANH OWK lightsaber cut away project

:) Thanks Nexus6!

I was planning on posting these today:lol . I finally was able to install the cold cathode tubes.
saber4-23unlit.JPG


Here they are with power applied. They operate off of very low current high frequency 600V, but it will still shock the fool out of you!:$
saber4-23lit.JPG


I was then able to attach the emitter section and the pommel.
saber4-23complete.JPG


The

The Cool Whip container didn't turn out to be as an attractive display as I thought, so I guess I'll have to work on that next :rolleyes .

ATL
 
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Whoa! This is nothing short of outstanding! Heck, I don´t believe anyone coined a word for something this cool! It´s almost glacial so cool it is!

Now wait a second - 600 VOLTS?!
 
:$ Thanks everyone!

I do have a very nice high quality J-Display case (RPF recommended) which I need to drill some holes in and mount to a box to hold the power supplies. I hope to be done by mid-summer.

ATL
 
WOW. :eek

Amazing attention to detail.

Your hard work and efforts are really paying off.

Keep up the good work.
 
I haven't had much of a chance to work on this lately. If I don't get the molding finished in the dining room soon, my wife'll probably call the lawyer :) .

caseprogress1.JPG


caseprogress2.JPG


caseprogress3.JPG


I finished making washers for the transistors yesterday, so those will be put on soon.

ATL
 
Finally got my Alderaanian Kiberwood :lol to make the base. (That stuff's kind of difficult to come by these days) The hole's for the power cord.
6-10basesides1.JPG


The four sides put together and clamped.
6-10baseclamped2.JPG


Tapping one of the washers so it can be used as a knob to turn a 4 position rotary swtch.
6-10washertap3.JPG


The transistor on the left will be used to push a lighted alternate action switch.
6-10transknobs4.JPG


The two transistors will mount to the side of the wood case through a simulate "Graflex" plate.
6-10switchplate5.JPG


The rest of the components, power supplies and power resistors, need to be mounted to the bottom plate.
6-10components6.JPG


Test fitting the cutawy to the base.
(Oh yeah - Can one of those damn :) Hasbro sabers be taken apart without completly destoying it :confused ? I've removed the 6 or 7 obvious screws but can't remove the emitter.)
6-10covernot7.JPG


With the acrylic cover.
6-10cover8.JPG


ATL Kenobi
 
Very, very cool! :love Sure wish I could see it up close..I bet the details when illuminated are really cool! :thumbsup
 
"Can one of those damn :) Hasbro sabers be taken apart without completly destoying it :confused ? I've removed the 6 or 7 obvious screws but can't remove the emitter."

Finally, a question I can answer! I'm in the process of converting a second one into a static replica, so I have some insight, I suppose. Some pics of the progess on my site (click on the "Build Your Own Obi Wan ROTS Sabre" link):

http://community.webtv.net/MDChubb/SabreCraft

First remove the blade by cutting around the base of the silver plastic bit that's on the end of the emitter. Then just manhandle it a bit, and pop the blade off (it'll take some effort, but it'll work). After that, cut the emitter in half following the parting lines of the saber's body, and take it apart. You should also be able to salvage the electronics using this method (I didn't manage that the first time around).

I was actually thinking of getting another one of them, and jumping on the band wagon with this cut-away saber craze. Is that the plan for yours?
 
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I was actually thinking of getting another one of them, and jumping on the band wagon with this cut-away saber craze. Is that the plan for yours?

Tan Djarka,

Thanks for the disassembly information. You confirmed that a certain amount of destruction is involved in taking it apart. Actually, I was giving some thought to using the sound board from it, perhaps amplifying the sound and running through a low profile 4" speaker. The problems are:
1. Reliably triggering the sound for on and off when the LEDs and lights are activated and then deactivated. 2. Having enough DC to run it. 3. If it sounds too cheesy, I'd have to invest in a Hyperdyne sound board which I know will sound great. 4. Time.

ATL
 
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