Vibro axe again. (See post #129 - #132)
- Thread starter jason1976
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Re: Vibro axe again.
Ok, since my earlier posts have may have been to confusing, I've thrown together some illustrations. (there not great I know but they do use the front to of a real supermax.
)
1) First up, this one use the measurements for the width of the blades, posted by Zorg earlier in this thread. And the length (hight, depending on how you look at it.) of the main blade set to the natural opening of the supermax. I made the side blades slightly shorter, but perhaps not to the correct length (hight) but I think it's close enough to make the point I"m trying to make. Wall this looks ok, the circle points out the gap that woud show up in all four corners of the supermax opening. (witch could be filled in with some boady filler.) But, it also looks like the side blades fall short of the edge of the face of the supermax, unlike the pics of the real prop above.
2) Second, this one is basically the same as the last one, but I've made the length (hight) of the side blades tthe same as the opening of the supermax. This would be if I filed the opening in the supermax a little big, just were the mail blade goes. This would get ride of the gaps, and hold the blade a little better. I don't know witch if more accurate, but I know that I don't see the gap on the real prop so they did something about it.
3 and 4) after studying the pics of the real prop, and my supper max I cam up with the fallowing. It's 5mm for each of the side blades, and 20mm for the main blade. It seams to match up nice to some of the pics, the proportions look ok to me, and it brings the whole deal almost even with the edge of the face, or the supermax. In the first illustrations shows what it would be with the gaps (witch again could be filled in) and the second one shows if I file out some of the supermax opening for the main blade, so there would be know gaps.
Here's another pic that kind of give you an idea of the proportions of the real prop.
Ok, since my earlier posts have may have been to confusing, I've thrown together some illustrations. (there not great I know but they do use the front to of a real supermax.
)1) First up, this one use the measurements for the width of the blades, posted by Zorg earlier in this thread. And the length (hight, depending on how you look at it.) of the main blade set to the natural opening of the supermax. I made the side blades slightly shorter, but perhaps not to the correct length (hight) but I think it's close enough to make the point I"m trying to make. Wall this looks ok, the circle points out the gap that woud show up in all four corners of the supermax opening. (witch could be filled in with some boady filler.) But, it also looks like the side blades fall short of the edge of the face of the supermax, unlike the pics of the real prop above.
2) Second, this one is basically the same as the last one, but I've made the length (hight) of the side blades tthe same as the opening of the supermax. This would be if I filed the opening in the supermax a little big, just were the mail blade goes. This would get ride of the gaps, and hold the blade a little better. I don't know witch if more accurate, but I know that I don't see the gap on the real prop so they did something about it.
3 and 4) after studying the pics of the real prop, and my supper max I cam up with the fallowing. It's 5mm for each of the side blades, and 20mm for the main blade. It seams to match up nice to some of the pics, the proportions look ok to me, and it brings the whole deal almost even with the edge of the face, or the supermax. In the first illustrations shows what it would be with the gaps (witch again could be filled in) and the second one shows if I file out some of the supermax opening for the main blade, so there would be know gaps.
Here's another pic that kind of give you an idea of the proportions of the real prop.
Re: Vibro axe again.
So then if it's filled at the bottom, and the top needs to come down too (more towards your green line) then over all more like this. (only with the tops of the side blades down a little more from the top?)
Basically using the front opening of the supermaxe, with out modifying it, and just filling in the space? Ok. I can do that.
Hm, I never considered needing to cut a notch for the thing on the other side. Do I just need to cut a place for that largest part, or for the whole pipe assembly that runs along that side? (the tube parts that come out of what your calling a spark plug) Oh, and "spark plug?" I'll have to take a look at those, I've been looking for a good match for that part on the real one, but haven't been having much luck.
Thanks again for all the help.
So then if it's filled at the bottom, and the top needs to come down too (more towards your green line) then over all more like this. (only with the tops of the side blades down a little more from the top?)
Basically using the front opening of the supermaxe, with out modifying it, and just filling in the space? Ok. I can do that.
Hm, I never considered needing to cut a notch for the thing on the other side. Do I just need to cut a place for that largest part, or for the whole pipe assembly that runs along that side? (the tube parts that come out of what your calling a spark plug) Oh, and "spark plug?" I'll have to take a look at those, I've been looking for a good match for that part on the real one, but haven't been having much luck.
Thanks again for all the help.
Re: Vibro axe again.
Oh, OH! I see now. I studied you pic, and some of mine, and I see the filler now. Your saying not only do the side blade, go to the bottem fo the opening, but neither does the main blade. (there is a gap all the way across bellow the blades.)
In other words. I'll need to fill the gap on either side of the main blade, just above the side blades on either side, and all bellow bothe the side blades AND the main blade, at the bottem. Rigjht?
Oh, OH! I see now. I studied you pic, and some of mine, and I see the filler now. Your saying not only do the side blade, go to the bottem fo the opening, but neither does the main blade. (there is a gap all the way across bellow the blades.)
In other words. I'll need to fill the gap on either side of the main blade, just above the side blades on either side, and all bellow bothe the side blades AND the main blade, at the bottem. Rigjht?
Re: Vibro axe again.
Are we sure about the 1" size for the main pipe? It seems too big for my supermax...
Are we sure it's not 3/4"?
Are we sure about the 1" size for the main pipe? It seems too big for my supermax...
Are we sure it's not 3/4"?
Re: Vibro axe again.
Yeah, I was a little untrusting of that measurement too, but when I got my soker csting, and I fixed up my blaster part, and started studding the dishwasher adaptor, I have to agree it's 1".
One of the ways you can tell, is on the blaster, before you cut it up, there is a little disk , on the bottom, right were the poll goes when it's converted for the vibroaxe. (it's about 1") If the pole were any smaller then 1" you would see part of that disk, or you would see evidence of them filling in, were they removed the disk.
I cut my blaster down, to just the part that I needed, then I put a piece of sand paper on a table, and put part with the disk against the sand paper. Then I moved it in a circle till the disk was gone, and because of the way it was made, once the disk was gone, there was a perfect sized, perfectly reround whole.
Yeah, I was a little untrusting of that measurement too, but when I got my soker csting, and I fixed up my blaster part, and started studding the dishwasher adaptor, I have to agree it's 1".
One of the ways you can tell, is on the blaster, before you cut it up, there is a little disk , on the bottom, right were the poll goes when it's converted for the vibroaxe. (it's about 1") If the pole were any smaller then 1" you would see part of that disk, or you would see evidence of them filling in, were they removed the disk.
I cut my blaster down, to just the part that I needed, then I put a piece of sand paper on a table, and put part with the disk against the sand paper. Then I moved it in a circle till the disk was gone, and because of the way it was made, once the disk was gone, there was a perfect sized, perfectly reround whole.
Re: Vibro axe again.
I see what I did wrong. The 1" measurement for the pipe I bought was the inner diameter. Whelp - back to the store! :rolleyes
Thanks for the input!
I see what I did wrong. The 1" measurement for the pipe I bought was the inner diameter. Whelp - back to the store! :rolleyes
Thanks for the input!
Re: Vibro axe again.
Yeah, that used to happen to me a lot. Lowes has 1" aluminum Tube that's like 8' long for reight around $12. That's what I'm using for mine, and it's actually 1" on the out side. Or, I was at a discount hardware store the other day and seen a 5' metal shower rod that was 1" in diameter for less then $10.
Yeah, that used to happen to me a lot. Lowes has 1" aluminum Tube that's like 8' long for reight around $12. That's what I'm using for mine, and it's actually 1" on the out side. Or, I was at a discount hardware store the other day and seen a 5' metal shower rod that was 1" in diameter for less then $10.
Re: Vibro axe again.
Thanks Jason - I got a new pipe.
How about those dishwasher connectors? I tried Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards and could not find the correct Danco part.
Any leads on where they ARE available? And when I do locate the correct part, where do I get an old-style clamp?
Thanks Jason - I got a new pipe
.How about those dishwasher connectors? I tried Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards and could not find the correct Danco part.
Any leads on where they ARE available? And when I do locate the correct part, where do I get an old-style clamp?
Re: Vibro axe again.
I'm afraid I've had little luck with that part. I've asked around here, posted all over, looked all over town, and can't get it all in one place. I've had to resort to making one. I had some brass hose connectors laying around here. (I got them at lows, in the gardening section, there about like the one on the POSW sight, but lows, and ACE both have the screw on kind that is a little bit closer to the actual metal tip on the real deal. ) So I mounted the part on the my dremel, in the drill press holder I have for it, and used files to lath off the knurled rings, and the extended inner threaded part. In short I chucked it up and lathed off anything that didn't look like the metal tip of the real prop. (and before you say, I don't think I can do that, I'm half blind in both eyes, with nothing more then my dremel, and old, cheep, files, if I can do it anyone can. )
Then I found the gray rubber part at Lowes, but it had the metal threading at the top, and the wrong clamp for like $5. I bout it anyway's, and found it pretty easy to get rid of the two part metal bit that makes up the threaded section. Once that's done it loose like the gray rubber part of the real thing. And, if you take the two part threaded part well enough, you will wind up with a little brass piece that you can stick up in the rubber part, and it will leave a little bit left sticking out the top, to attach the metal top piece to. (I think you could fake the rubber bit with some different size pieces of pipe, for a lot less though. )
Now, I'm going to have to make a clamp. I'm thinking of using these little copper straps you find in the pluming section, to bound pipes to the wall.
Well that's about as clear as mud. :lol I'll see if I can get some pics some tine soon. (it may be a week or so, because I wont be able to get to the store to get the rest of the parts of the clamp for a few days, at the least. )
That said, if someone does come up with the real thing, then FOR GOD SAKE PM ME!
I'm afraid I've had little luck with that part. I've asked around here, posted all over, looked all over town, and can't get it all in one place.
I've had to resort to making one. I had some brass hose connectors laying around here. (I got them at lows, in the gardening section, there about like the one on the POSW sight, but lows, and ACE both have the screw on kind that is a little bit closer to the actual metal tip on the real deal. ) So I mounted the part on the my dremel, in the drill press holder I have for it, and used files to lath off the knurled rings, and the extended inner threaded part. In short I chucked it up and lathed off anything that didn't look like the metal tip of the real prop. (and before you say, I don't think I can do that, I'm half blind in both eyes, with nothing more then my dremel, and old, cheep, files, if I can do it anyone can. )Then I found the gray rubber part at Lowes, but it had the metal threading at the top, and the wrong clamp for like $5.
I bout it anyway's, and found it pretty easy to get rid of the two part metal bit that makes up the threaded section. Once that's done it loose like the gray rubber part of the real thing. And, if you take the two part threaded part well enough, you will wind up with a little brass piece that you can stick up in the rubber part, and it will leave a little bit left sticking out the top, to attach the metal top piece to. (I think you could fake the rubber bit with some different size pieces of pipe, for a lot less though. ) Now, I'm going to have to make a clamp.
I'm thinking of using these little copper straps you find in the pluming section, to bound pipes to the wall. Well that's about as clear as mud. :lol I'll see if I can get some pics some tine soon. (it may be a week or so, because I wont be able to get to the store to get the rest of the parts of the clamp for a few days, at the least. )
That said, if someone does come up with the real thing, then FOR GOD SAKE PM ME!
Re: Vibro axe again.
Yes those do help - THANKS!
Yes those do help - THANKS!
Re: Vibro axe again.
Here's a post to keep this thread alive:
I found the correct tip WITH the correct clamp at a "Do it Best" hardware store. They only had one with the old-style clamp, but they had several of the newer version. As you know, the newer version has a different clamp, but they had a bunch of other quickconnect parts with the correct clamp.
Hope this helps some people out who are looking for this part!
Chris
Here's a post to keep this thread alive:
I found the correct tip WITH the correct clamp at a "Do it Best" hardware store. They only had one with the old-style clamp, but they had several of the newer version. As you know, the newer version has a different clamp, but they had a bunch of other quickconnect parts with the correct clamp.
Hope this helps some people out who are looking for this part!
Chris
lonepigeon
Master Member
Re: Vibro axe again.
I've found the tips at Do-it-Best stores and even Ace too, but not all stores carry them even within the same chain.
I always try to check older hardware stores for the tip with correct clamp.
I've found the tips at Do-it-Best stores and even Ace too, but not all stores carry them even within the same chain.
I always try to check older hardware stores for the tip with correct clamp.
Re: Vibro axe again.
For fun, here are some pics:
The Package:
The Tip:
And I like to call this, "A Good Start"
For fun, here are some pics:
The Package:
The Tip:
And I like to call this, "A Good Start"
SaberFreak
Sr Member
Re: Vibro axe again.
RF, mind sharing how you connect the tip to the pipe? A dowel?
Some pics of the assembly WIP would be much appreciated
RF, mind sharing how you connect the tip to the pipe? A dowel?
Some pics of the assembly WIP would be much appreciated
Re: Vibro axe again.
The tip comes with a black rubber spacer inside. Just loosen the clamp, pull it out a bit, and it fits perfectly in the end of the pipe. When you get your tip, you will see - it's a no-brainer.
The tip comes with a black rubber spacer inside. Just loosen the clamp, pull it out a bit, and it fits perfectly in the end of the pipe. When you get your tip, you will see - it's a no-brainer.
Re: Vibro axe again.
Anybody know where I get the part that resembles a Darth Vader chest rod? I think that's the only part I don't have a lead on...
Anybody know where I get the part that resembles a Darth Vader chest rod? I think that's the only part I don't have a lead on...
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