Vibro axe again. (See post #129 - #132)

[Sith_Lord_Hritz]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I have the tools needed to make the blade from plastic or wood. I just would like to have a template that I can use that would be considered accurate among all the prop builders. I would just hate to spend the time fabricating the blade to find out that it is all wrong. If I do find such a template I would enjoy making some extras for people who have had this same problem.

SaberFreak and Jason1976 you have pm’s from me about the templates

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I have the tools needed to make the blade from plastic or wood. I just would like to have a template that I can use that would be considered accurate among all the prop builders. I would just hate to spend the time fabricating the blade to find out that it is all wrong. If I do find such a template I would enjoy making some extras for people who have had this same problem.

SaberFreak and Jason1976 you have pm’s from me about the templates

Well, I haven't got your PM yet, but I'll just post what I have here. Actualy I'll post a quote by the creater of them, from an older thread.

I can do another run of the Yamaha parts if there is interest. If Moncal wants to do it, that's fine, too.

The tutorial for my original run can be found HERE.

I made plans for both the blade and chest rod. Chris is right. The chest rod is a bit different than the usual Vader rods. It's thicker and has more center grooves.

Here's the blade. I made one out of wood based on these plans and it looks pretty dead-on. I'd love to have a metal or plastic blade, though.

Patrick

 

[Sith_Lord_Hritz]

Re: Vibro axe again.

thanks that is part of what i am looking for the other part would be the correct dimensions. anyone know what they would be.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

thanks that is part of what i am looking for the other part would be the correct dimensions. anyone know what they would be.

Um just look through this thread. (try page 2) I think we figured it up to be 20mm (or almost 3/4") for the thickness of the main blade, and 5mm for the side blades, but I would have to check. It looks like from the pics, that Zorg's main blade is around 3.5" across. (a little under 9cm, or 97 mm or so) and around 12" long, but I would have to check these by blowing them up a little in photoshop to get a better look at the measurements in the pics.

 

[Dexvader]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Here is my attempt. Waiting on two part to add before paint.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Well these pics are long over due, and really bad, because the camera I had to use is no good at close ups, but I digress.

Fist up, I didn't think I was ever going to get on of the accurate tips so I bout one of the new thread on ones:

Then I looked in my old junk parts and found one of these hose adaptors:

Then I picked up some of those copper strap things you use to attach copper pipe to the wale.

I used one of those rubber dealies you use to hold sanding barrels on a dremel, to hold the brass hose piece on my dremel, and mounted my dremel in it "drill press" accessory. (A holder that lest you use your dremel like a drill press. ) Then I used files to grind off the parts I didn't need. It went very, very well. (for once.)

Then I sanded, and filed down the copper strap thing a little, to get it closer to the size of the band around the actually screen used part. (I need to take some more off, but you get the idea.)

And here's what I got, next to the ACTUAL ACCURATE FOUND PART, THAT I GOT FROM Real Fakes.

I've got almost enough together now to do Two axes. One accurate, and one not as accurate, but still fun. to liven up the extra axe, I'm thinking of putting EL sheet behind all the vents, like in the supermax, blaster part, and the soaker, but that's a ways off, I just want to get the accurate one done first.

And I just slid some of the parts on a pipe to show that the are drilled out, and ready to go.

I still need a blade for at lest the accurate axe, and I still need to do an accurate pipe thingy for the side of the blade for the accurate one.

 

[SaberFreak]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Damn, I still have no luck finding some resin blaster grille parts. Surely somebody must make them?

I won't mind getting accurate pipe thingy too, although I'm perfectly happy with the ones from Adamata

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Damn, I still have no luck finding some resin blaster grille parts. Surely somebody must make them?

I won't mind getting accurate pipe thingy too, although I'm perfectly happy with the ones from Adamata

Honestly, I think it would be cheaper, and better in the long run, to just cut down the toy blaster grill. I had one of the orange ones setting around for years, and finally a few months back, I got axe fever and cut it, and shaped it for my vibro, but then I found out, that out of the two blasters I had, I cut up the wrong one. So, I figured, if I was going to do something, might as well do it all the way, and I picked up a broken, vintage, toy blaster for next to nothing. There are a lot of little differences, inside, and out, between the vintage, and newer blasters. I would get vintage, if you can, the inside, is an easier, and safer mod to do, and the plastic, is easyer to work with, IMO. The Vintage acts a little more like resin, in that it's more sandable, and fillable, and I think it will take pant better. Plus, the newer one (at least the one I worked with) have blocky things on the inside, that I had to grind down, so the pipe would go through the part. The vintage one didn't have the blocks. (man I wish I had taken pics of the inside of them, before I modded them out. )

I really like Adamata's pipe assembly, and I really appreciate him including one with the most excellent cast resin soaker, I bout off him. I just want to try to do something a little closer to the correct size for my more accurate axe. if I do my second axe, I'm totally using Adamata's pipe.

I walked around Lowes a few times looking for parts to do the pipe assembly, but every thing that I found was a little price for my taste. Like $7. or $8. a part, and there would be a few parts. And, wall that is not outrages, I think I could make it out of junk I have around the apartment. Well, at least that's what I'm going to try first, when I get time.

I really need the Screw thing for the side of the supermax too. I know TK409 makes a very nice one, but to be honest there a little pricey for my taste. (hey, he even said I might be better off making my own. ) So I have to give that a try too.

Oh, it's not in the pic, but I made the other round part that goes under the Yamaha part. I just found a pipe with the correct inside diameter, rolled out some sculpy, and used the pipe as a cookie cutter, and then I just backed the sculpy. A little sanding, and wah-lah, disky thing. (hey it doesn't have to be fancy, it goes on top of one part, and under another one. )

 

[adamata]

Re: Vibro axe again.

if I do my second axe, I'm totally using Adamata's pipe.

Stop talking about my pipe. :$ :lol

Also, the soaker looks good. How did you get it to stay on the staff at the right spot? Epoxy? I haven't tried to solve that problem yet so I was curious.

(I do have some more if anyone needs one.)

My projects are pretty much stored for the winter since it gets cold in my workshop (garage ) so I will pick this up again in the spring.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Stop talking about my pipe. :$ :lol

Also, the soaker looks good. How did you get it to stay on the staff at the right spot? Epoxy? I haven't tried to solve that problem yet so I was curious.

(I do have some more if anyone needs one.)

My projects are pretty much stored for the winter since it gets cold in my workshop (garage ) so I will pick this up again in the spring.

Didn't solve the soaker yet, I just slid it on for the pic. I'm a little up in there air. It's a perfact fight for my PVC pipe, and I think epoxy would do fine. But I really want to use my aluminum 1" pipe, witch is just a little more narrow , and that means the soaker, is a little loose. So, If I use the metal pipe I'll have to space it out a little.


I think I'm going to slather up the pipe with JB weld, use tooth pics (or something like that) to space it out around the metal pipe , and hold it in place, until the epoxy dries. Then fill in the little gap between the pipe, and the soaker at the top, and bottom with either more epoxy, or body filler. Just to be on the safe side, I may drill a little hole through the "stem" part of the soaker, and in to the pipe, and put a set screw, or rode through, and then fill it in/over to hide it.

I feel your pain about the temperature. I live in an apartment, in Columbus, Ohio. I can keep working my fingers to the bone on my props all winter, but I shouldn't paint them until spring. (I say "shouldn't" because last year, I made a vented tent out of drop clothes, in my apartment so I could paint, in the winter, but despite my best efforts, paint blow back went everywhere, and it took me over a month, to clean the apartment, not to mention, that the blow back, just wouldn't come off some things. ) So, as usual, it's hurry up, and wait. Oh, well, it just gives me time to do it right, and get other projects ready to paint as well.

At least I broke my old habit. I used to put it all up for the winter, then the spring would come, and I woudn't have anything ready, so I would spend all my good painting days, making assembling, prepping, the props, and then by the time I was ready, I would always miss the best painting days. So, now I plug away all year round, so I'll be ready when I get one of those rare painting days.

Oh, what I would do for a heated, work shop with low humidity.

 

[Dexvader]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I used epoxy to secure the soaker.

Im still looking for the correct tip and vader rod. Anyone?

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Can some one post up the measurements for the Phillips-head screw thingy on the side of the supermax. I thought I would take a crack at making one this week, but I need to have some Idea what to shoot for..

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I used epoxy to secure the soaker.

Im still looking for the correct tip and vader rod. Anyone?

Well, I think there is, a name, or two, on the first page, or two, of this very thread, that may be willing to machine you a Vader rod, or you could just do a hardware one, like some of use have done. Real Fakes, and I both posted some parts Ideas that you might use. I kind of like the home made looks of mine, and RFs, they kind of fight the pieced together look of the over all prop, and so many other props in the star wars OT.

Or I see resin, and metal vader rods on ebay. There actually Vader rods though, and not quite the same as the ons for this prop, but in a pinch, it sould be something. (hey I considered it, before I made my own. )

As for the tip, you could either use some of the info I posted on the pervious page about the one I made, or you could talk to one of the folks that seem to have the magic tough at finding the real thing.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Can someone post up the measurements for the Phillips-head screw thingy on the side of the supermax. I thought I would take a crack at making one this week, but I need to have some Idea what to shoot for..

Anyone, anyone at all. It looks like about 3/4" across the hesd to me, but I would like to know for sure, beforeI go making one.

 

[SaberFreak]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Honestly, I think it would be cheaper, and better in the long run, to just cut down the toy blaster grill.

Not for me I'm afraid. Even if I an find a buyer with two identical toy blasters for sale, and each only cost me say $10, shipping the two blasters to me would cost around $30-$40.

So I'm looking at having to spend at least $50-$60 for two small parts, if I go that route...

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Not for me I'm afraid. Even if I an find a buyer with two identical toy blasters for sale, and each only cost me say $10, shipping the two blasters to me would cost around $30-$40.

So I'm looking at having to spend at least $50-$60 for two small parts, if I go that route...

Well, that depends, on how accurate your going for, and where they're being shipped from.

I say that, because we were just talking in another thread about how "Star tours" still sells the new (orange 90's) version, in there packaging. (It's not 100% to the vintage one, but it looks like the orange and gray grill in my pics above.) The point is that euro Disney my have them, and someone nere Euro Disney may be able to ship it to you cheaper.

Or, If you could find a member with one of these toys, you could have them cut it down to just that area of the blaster, and then ship it to you in a nicely padded envelope. I don't do a lot of over seas shipping, and it's been a wile since I checked in to it, but the last time I needed to ship a part this size, to your part of the world, it seemed outrageous, but the buyer turned me on to the fact that I could ship it in an oversized envelope, or next to nothing. (I for get what the envelopes are called, I think it was something like "Global Express Envelope" or something like that. ) If I had a grill I wasn't going to use I would do it for you.

Just some thoughts, then again, your over there, so you probably know better then me.

 

[SaberFreak]

Re: Vibro axe again.

the buyer turned me on to the fact that I could ship it in an oversized envelope, or next to nothing. (I for get what the envelopes are called, I think it was something like "Global Express Envelope" or something like that.)

Its an 'International Flat Rate Envelope'. Or just send via 'International First Class Air Mail'.

Problem is, most seller don't bother to listen when I give them shipping instructions, and usually end up using the most expensive option, because its the most convenient for them.

If you can help me get a couple of grille I'd really appreciate it. I need two, since I'm building two axes.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Its an 'International Flat Rate Envelope'. Or just send via 'International First Class Air Mail'.

Problem is, most seller don't bother to listen when I give them shipping instructions, and usually end up using the most expensive option, because its the most convenient for them.

If you can help me get a couple of grille I'd really appreciate it. I need two, since I'm building two axes.

Well I'll do what I can. If I come across them locally (thrift store, junk shop, friends house, etc.) then I would be more then happy to help. Or, if I can't find them for next to nothing like I did my vintage one. (the person saw I needed vibro axe parts, and shince he didn't need his left overs, he sold me the blaster, and a number of other cool pieces for like $20.)

However, I would rather not have to buy them say on ebay, pay for them to be shipped to me, and then have to cut them down, and then ship to you. That would be very time consuming, and could get pricey. I'm not saying I wouldn't do that for you, I'm just saying that would be a last resort for me.

Do you have a preference. There's vintage. (I don't know if there was a difference between the vintage ones or not.) Modern orange, with screws on the same side as the vintage. Or Modern, Orange with the screws on the opposite side from the vintage.

The insides are a little different between them, but that doesn't really show much on the outside (though, I think the vintage is easier to mod out) The fines are a little different on them. (at least between the vintage and either of the orange ones) And yes on the one style of modern ones the screws are on the wrong side, but on all of them there is only one real screw used in the part you need, and on the opposite side there is a fake one. So, in other words, yes the screws (fake in real) are switched on the one version, but you would have to look really close to tell because either way, you have a screw head on both sides. (If that made any since. )

 

[SaberFreak]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Hey if you (or anyone else) do come across a blaster (vintage or otherwise) for cheap, and is willing to cut it up and send me just that part, I'd really appreciate it.

But no, I won't expect anyone to go out of their way to do that for me. I've been building these two axe for years and it makes no difference if I have to wait some more before I can finish them.

The hunt is actually the best part. Once its done, well, its just DONE...

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

The hunt is actually the best part. Once its done, well, its just DONE...

So true.

Though I did have a thout. When you mentioned a casting, I was thinking of the part as it is. Witch would be very thin, and fradule, and would probably brake before you even got it out of the mold, not to mention, it might have to be a multiple part casting. However, the idea I had last night was fill in the inside with clay, or putty, or something, for the molding part. So, once cast it would be kind of a solid resin black, with the outside looking like the part, then just drill the 1" hole were it should be. (if that made any since) That way you would have something behind the vents/fins, and other thin parts, to give them a bit of support. Doen right, it could end up looking about the same on the out side, but over all it could be a better, and stronger part then the original.

If only I had any experience with molding/casting.

Anyone else want to take this on?