Good job!
And yeah, to reduce chatter, "decrease speed and increase feed" is what you learn in machine tool school. Gotta know your speeds and feeds! Or at least print out a chart and hang it on the wall for easy reference. Just look up "speeds and feeds" and I'm sure something will come up.
And yeah, of course ALWAYS have everything you're working with locked down. If you don't have a file card, get one. Aluminum, like folks have said, is soft and gummy and will make filing MUCH more difficult if you don't clean your files often.
Bottoming taps are great to have, to get those threads as close to the "bottom" of the hole as possible. You can always MAKE one from a taper tap in a pinch. I'll use a bench grinder or belt sander to flatten the nose (a Dremel would work, just be careful), then de-burr and dress the edges, like you're shortening a screw's threads to make a shorter screw.
Anyway, yeah I think you're doing a great job on this one!
Thank you!!
What I'm wondering... did they add Grub screws for the steel rod ... or do these big black bolts also pinch the rod? I want to say no since there is a core/blade stuck together on the table, that has no black bolts or handle. However I didn't see another hole.. this is why I just went with a tapped hole on the ESB Graflex for demonstration purposes. that wasn't super accurate, since I guessed hole placement based on a couple grainy photos. (in fact, one photo from the bespin duel doesn't even show a bolt on the back, but we don't know how many stunts they had)
Phew, thanks for the tips too. The core stuck inside the tube wasn't locked together so it rattled to all hell. Once the first screw was situated properly and tightened, the two pieces of metal worked seamlessly. I wonder how Halliwax did the first bolt? Also, I hope he read the counterinking bit part earlier, neither of us could figure out how the bore turned cylindrical on that other saber, and seeing the smaller bit burrow in once I got to the edge was like a lightbulb going off