Rehearsal Stunt Lightsaber - "The Core" sequel
- Thread starter thd9791
- Start date
Hey, does anyone have a clearer version of this shot?
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53atrBlS...eaping+vader+star+wars+return+of+the+jedi.jpg
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53atrBlS...eaping+vader+star+wars+return+of+the+jedi.jpg
I can't really tell but that looks more like the DV6 to me.
Vader is smoking the pipe!
Well hello.... this is from the flip picture.... is this what it looked like before the tape came off? are those greeblies?
View attachment 1033300
crazy idea.... what if they decorated it and molded it for the toss stunt..
Well folks, I learned something.
I got, what I thought, was **** foam weatherstrip. Turns out I got velvety foam, about as thick as a couple strips of gum. VERY comfortable and looks the part. However, I think they used a more robust version in a few scenes. Looks like it changed from ESB to ROTJ and multiple times in each film. THICK stuff in ESB and a little thinner in ROTJ, but I think it was definitely dark black weatherstrip, and nothing with a gray tint.
It's 15mm in width, which looks correct. "close enough" to T track, but wider, covering more of the handle. So, I generally cut some to length with scissors, leaving a bit at the bottom and the top (clamp and end of saber) Well, it turns out, the glue pattern/grip pattern happens by accident. If you start trying to leave a moderate gap between the grips, you run out of space, and cram the last few together (6). cannot fit 7 of this width. Looking at
Also, when you hold it between your fingers and lay it on the tube, its flexible. That means it lays down sometimes in wavy lines, or the ends curve a little to one side. I thought that was from heavy use on set, but any little bit of force when applying them makes them go a bit wonky as opposed to rigid plastic strip.
pics soon!
I got, what I thought, was **** foam weatherstrip. Turns out I got velvety foam, about as thick as a couple strips of gum. VERY comfortable and looks the part. However, I think they used a more robust version in a few scenes. Looks like it changed from ESB to ROTJ and multiple times in each film. THICK stuff in ESB and a little thinner in ROTJ, but I think it was definitely dark black weatherstrip, and nothing with a gray tint.
It's 15mm in width, which looks correct. "close enough" to T track, but wider, covering more of the handle. So, I generally cut some to length with scissors, leaving a bit at the bottom and the top (clamp and end of saber) Well, it turns out, the glue pattern/grip pattern happens by accident. If you start trying to leave a moderate gap between the grips, you run out of space, and cram the last few together (6). cannot fit 7 of this width. Looking at
Also, when you hold it between your fingers and lay it on the tube, its flexible. That means it lays down sometimes in wavy lines, or the ends curve a little to one side. I thought that was from heavy use on set, but any little bit of force when applying them makes them go a bit wonky as opposed to rigid plastic strip.
pics soon!
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Anyone any idea of the purpose of the 'filler' ? Seems odd if it's just to hide the shiny metal end of the core as they're not bothered about that with in ANH stunts & what problem would that cause anyway?
This is a good question. There are two ideas that come to me. If this was the stunt seen in the post-ANH publicity photos, then this was a first hack at the solid bladed stunt. Something weird might be going on down there that we don't understand yet. the MPPs seem to just be bare metal when looking at fight scenes, so I really don't know why they would need anything
or this is a later-era pipe stunt and they screwed up/wanted to hide something.
Quite honestly the material covering the core looks more like paper than filler... but I was going to use apoxie sculpt anyways. Trouble is, I've had failure to adhere to metal even when it's sanded, so I decided on another temp route.
The material on the prop looks to be 1-2mm thick and I couldn't find anything. For now, my SO has a large stack of vinyl that she makes stickers with and sells them on etsy, so I nabbed some gray vinyl and cut it to fit with an xacto knife. If anything it covers my drifted center hole damage. I think they opted not to use this for the MPP, which also had an exposed core. It looks like they kept the upper 2/3 of th3 graflex socket to keep the exposed pins in place and thus no exposed core
The material on the prop looks to be 1-2mm thick and I couldn't find anything. For now, my SO has a large stack of vinyl that she makes stickers with and sells them on etsy, so I nabbed some gray vinyl and cut it to fit with an xacto knife. If anything it covers my drifted center hole damage. I think they opted not to use this for the MPP, which also had an exposed core. It looks like they kept the upper 2/3 of th3 graflex socket to keep the exposed pins in place and thus no exposed core
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Sorry I missed it, this is 1/16 tubing!
I think I used a countereinking bit of a different pitch than the bolts.. Do people use the bits that hook onto the shaft of a normal bit or the solid cone shaped bits? I'm just doing standard 1/4 20 black oxide bolts and I feel this should have taken less effort because of how standard it probably is
I think I used a countereinking bit of a different pitch than the bolts.. Do people use the bits that hook onto the shaft of a normal bit or the solid cone shaped bits? I'm just doing standard 1/4 20 black oxide bolts and I feel this should have taken less effort because of how standard it probably is
I personally use separate countersinks, not the kind that attach to a twist drill.
I don't know what the included angle is on your 1/4-20 bolt heads, but it'd be easy to figure out.
It may be around 82°, I just grabbed this from a Google search:
A pretty simple way for you to make sure you've got the right countersink, though, would be to simply hold it in front of and/or behind the bolt in question, and decide with your eyes whether the angles are close enough.
I don't know what the included angle is on your 1/4-20 bolt heads, but it'd be easy to figure out.
It may be around 82°, I just grabbed this from a Google search:
A pretty simple way for you to make sure you've got the right countersink, though, would be to simply hold it in front of and/or behind the bolt in question, and decide with your eyes whether the angles are close enough.
I may have brought this up before but there are some holes in our knowledge and I tried drawing it out.
We dont know how the tang stays in the core.
We also dont know how the blades stayed in the ANH OBI wan stunts. Honestly, to take such a beating the nipple would not suffice.. check these out.
Also yes, I dont believe the original core is ion the barbican.Well, the original core that the holes were drilled for. ones empty and 2 different cores are in there
We dont know how the tang stays in the core.
We also dont know how the blades stayed in the ANH OBI wan stunts. Honestly, to take such a beating the nipple would not suffice.. check these out.
Also yes, I dont believe the original core is ion the barbican.Well, the original core that the holes were drilled for. ones empty and 2 different cores are in there
