So for the Canon Model X, the first thing that I did was drill out the rivets and pop off the bracket at the top. The grunge that was underneath wiped off easily with a little 99% isopropyl alcohol.
I used a couple pieces of the bulb socket from the Model Y to fashion a bit of detail to dress out the emitter well - I had to sand down the black plastic ring a considerable amount, as it was too large to fit inside. It's a snug fit and as an assist it's held in place by the tension of the eject button.
I wanted to use a bubble strip in the clamp on this one - found this in the parts box but I don't recall what sort of calculator it came out of.
It turned out to be more work than I was anticipating, since I wanted to leave the circuit board underneath and I also had to deal with removing the "wall" that was around the bubbles. This entailed a lot of grinding and sanding, both to the bubble strip and the underside of the circuit board. There were also a couple of near disaster moments, as the plastic of the bubbles was old and brittle.
Oy... I eventually got it thinned down enough to tightly slide into the slot. I also trimmed down a strip of lure tape from wannawanga to cover the text on the clamp.
The grips were once again from wannawanga. I faked the rivets - I only drilled through the T-track, and clipped the rivets short, leaving just enough of the shaft to press fit into the holes. Last step was attaching the D-ring with a button head socket screw.


I used a couple pieces of the bulb socket from the Model Y to fashion a bit of detail to dress out the emitter well - I had to sand down the black plastic ring a considerable amount, as it was too large to fit inside. It's a snug fit and as an assist it's held in place by the tension of the eject button.


I wanted to use a bubble strip in the clamp on this one - found this in the parts box but I don't recall what sort of calculator it came out of.

It turned out to be more work than I was anticipating, since I wanted to leave the circuit board underneath and I also had to deal with removing the "wall" that was around the bubbles. This entailed a lot of grinding and sanding, both to the bubble strip and the underside of the circuit board. There were also a couple of near disaster moments, as the plastic of the bubbles was old and brittle.

The grips were once again from wannawanga. I faked the rivets - I only drilled through the T-track, and clipped the rivets short, leaving just enough of the shaft to press fit into the holes. Last step was attaching the D-ring with a button head socket screw.



