Interest KRULL - "The GLAIVE"!!! Metal-casting KIT!!!

For painting, I'm reminded that this prop comes already chromed. So, changing it to gold should be a simple matter of airbrushing on some Alclad transparent yellow with a drop or two of transparent red, I would think? The shine should show through underneath. So we're essentially tinting it instead of painting it? And then you could follow with the bone white. I'm thinking that technique beats having to do a gold leaf application. What do y'all think? Would it stick?
I used Copic ink pen refills. Sand brown over the chrome sealed with 4k gloss
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UPDATE:

If you guys want to go ahead and start and know better ways to finish the Glaive up, feel free to post how you do it!

Keep in mind, the only place that is "GOLD" on the Glaive, is where the 'Runes' are at... Otherwise, I would have just Gold-plated it in the first place...

The Glaive that went up for auction didn't have chrome on it, because of it's age and it wore off... Kind of like the Indy Idol that was Green instead of Gold, since the Gold-plating wore off over time...

So, I personally would not go off the Propstore Glaive for accuracy, since it's old and most of the finish has worn off...
The Propstore Glaive was also cast in Brass, which is why it looks Gold...

I'll post a video on how I made mine in the next week. That way you can decide to do it my way, or if you know a better technique, you can be creative! ;)

Here's another Screen Capture from the film to show you more of where the Gold is and where the Silver is located on the Glaive!

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Relicmaker's is probably the best screenshot, but here's another just for reference. I ran this through a sharpening algorithm to better bring out the details. This version would be the prop store version -- the one with the functioning blades. So it's pretty clear to see just how much the finish on it has deteriorated over the years. Originally, it would have looked almost identical to the "belt hang" version in Relicmaker's screenshot above.

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Received my kit and it’s absolutely amazing! Thank you RelicMaker for making another beautiful grail piece that made this 80’s kid extremely happy. Looking forward to watching your vid before I get started on mine.
 
I made a quick color reference for myself from one of RelicMaker's 3D shots, taking into account your comments, and thought I'd share. Someone please tell me if I've gotten anything wrong!!
Looks great! You just saved me from having to do this step of making a pattern to work off! Thanks!
 
Relicmaker's is probably the best screenshot, but here's another just for reference. I ran this through a sharpening algorithm to better bring out the details. This version would be the prop store version -- the one with the functioning blades. So it's pretty clear to see just how much the finish on it has deteriorated over the years. Originally, it would have looked almost identical to the "belt hang" version in Relicmaker's screenshot above.

This is exactly what I'm saying! It doesn't make sense to have Gold-Leaf on top of Shiny Gold...
So, it would make more sense it being Chrome Silver with Gold-Leaf....
Especially, given the contrast between the two colors in the Screen Captures. ;)
 
Sterling job RelicMaker... the prop you produced looks fantastic (y)

Its interesting looking at the original prop, they seem to have painted on the weird worded accents which have ofcourse weathered out mostly over time on a brass casted prop, acid etching would be mad back then but great:)

Its a fantastic replica to weather as you please...

I believe i read 6 of these were made for the movie,,i would imagine 2 hero with the elastic bands that open the blades, .......2 that were static with no blades for the safety of the actors and 2 other stunt glaives that were static open blades. Just my theory but it defo has a massive interest this prop.

Brass/gold plate or even gold leaf it...the choice is yours :)

Enjoy...its a belter:)

Nice one RelicMaker well done mate !!!
 
Got mine and this thing is very nice and amazingly heavy. Planning to wait a little to see how others finish it and compare techniques. I personally don't want super shiny gold.
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Here's a pic of the new one from RelicaMaker compared to another Glaive I acquired a couple years ago and made a case and plaque for it.
 
Looks great! You just saved me from having to do this step of making a pattern to work off! Thanks!
Hey RelicMaker, so the "white enamel" portion of my Amazon order appears currently stuck in limbo.... but while I'm waiting for that to come in, is there a recommended order you suggest for finishing the Glaive? Basically, should I be patient and wait for the white and start with that step? Or do you think it matters?
 
Hey RelicMaker, so the "white enamel" portion of my Amazon order appears currently stuck in limbo.... but while I'm waiting for that to come in, is there a recommended order you suggest for finishing the Glaive? Basically, should I be patient and wait for the white and start with that step? Or do you think it matters?
I'm working on the video right now! ;)
Currently finishing up the Gold-Leaf, which is the first step, and then I'll spray an Acrylic Gloss coating over the Gold-Leaf to protect it. Let dry...
Second step, drawing the Runes in black India Ink. Let dry...
Third step, painting the Testor's Gloss White model paint enamel onto the Glaive. Let dry...
Fourth step, will be gluing on the Crystals and Blades! Let dry...

A COUPLE OF WARNINGS!!!
You don't want to apply the White Paint before you add the Gold-Leaf, because the Acrylic Spray will eat the White Paint off... I learned this part the hard way...:rolleyes:

Also, I believe they Chrome Plated these Glaives using the Spray On Process, instead of the Electro-plating Process. So, do not Mask Off portions of the Glaive with tape, because you risk the possibility of the tape removing the Chrome when you remove the tape...
 
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I'm definitely worried about the gold leafing part. I've been practicing a little on random items and I've been getting inconsistent results. Flat areas I think I can do alright on. But uneven areas are a problem, especially if the adhesive from the pen pools up in low spots.
 

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